48 Hours in Florence

- we didn't see David

The Bloc Hotel at Gatwick airport was an unusual choice for the first night of our romantic getaway but it was something we both wanted to try out.

Our flight at 8:30am would’ve meant getting up in the early hours of the morning and having done that lots before I knew that the two of us would be tired and tetchy on the first day of our mini break. Notwithstanding bathroom privacy issues we had a good stay and arrived in Florence in time for lunch, well-rested and refreshed.

We used to take city breaks a lot when we first met, and worked regular hours for a bank, but those trips have fallen away. In fact, 18 years ago to the day had seen Drew propose to me at our favourite boutique hotel in the Marais district of Paris. Our short city breaks never quite follow the itinerary of other folk; we generally avoid all museums, monuments and ‘sights’ preferring to just wander the streets, eat, drink, shop and experience the essence of a City, as though we live there.

The apartment we’d been recommended was, in short, perfection. Right next to the Uffizi gallery the location was wonderful and we were able to walk all around the city without having to call a cab.

Having dropped off the cases, we headed straight for a cocktail at the Angel Rooftop Bar, recommended by our host. Two Limoncello Spritzes and a hamburger later we were starting to shimmy slightly to the 90s tunes played at the staff party next to us and so ducked out for a little shopping. Stopping for a Mai Tai at La Petite, though, was a mistake. It was a cool spot to have a drink and the cocktails were good; short and strong the way I like them. It was, however, a bridge too far and before we knew it we were swaying back to the delightfully-cool, air conditioned, apartment for a long afternoon nap.

Florence is a beautiful city but there are way too many people crowding its narrow streets, particularly during the day. The magic, for me, is at dusk when the shops and museums have closed. Windows, galleries and Trattorias are gently illuminated and the dark stone streets feel almost magical.

At Fattoria Rossi that first evening we shared a platter of aged organic cheese served with peach jam and honey. Sliced pork loin with roasted potatoes and biscotti dipped into sweet wine. Simple, delicious, fare sitting outside on a quiet street behind the busy piazzas and market stalls. Meandering through the streets to our apartment we were seduced by freshly filled bombolini (doughnuts) which we shared over a coffee for supper.

Wednesday was our only full day in the city and we started early with coffee at Ditta Artiginale. It had been recommend to us by several people and for good reason - the coffee was excellent. We sat on the deep window sills of the bakery to drink and watched the world go by before setting off to Zecchi.

This small but perfectly formed art shop behind the Duomo is one that I have wanted to visit for a long time; colours and materials used by Renaissance and indeed pre-Renaissance painters have been recreated by this company and although it is possible to buy small sets from Choosing Keeping in London I have waited for the experience of visiting the shop itself. I chose a gorgeous set of colours and a couple of watercolour pads that are an unusually long narrow shape, perfect for concertina books.

We popped into Scrivimi and Il Papiro for Florentine marbled notebooks and then stumbled upon the New Bridge Pizza Club for wine and a lunchtime snack.

Drew does not have many interests outside of books, world war II and Manchester United but he is obsessive about music. We became friends more than 20 years ago over a shared love of bands and singers who, at the time, were not widely known. The two of us regularly sent each other home-burned CDs with new playlists via the Bank’s internal mail. The bars and hotels in which we choose to linger always have a particular music vibe. The New Bridge Pizza Club is one of those places. (Also, La Petite for evening cocktails indoors).

Tired of the crowds and heat we made our way across the river for coffee at a converted monastary that Drew had read about. The walk there was tiring, a little smelly and quite uninspiring so we had no great expectation for the place but it was a hidden gem. Students and creatives peppered the tree-shaded cloister to read, work and chat over a coffee. Artist studios opened onto the yard and I was invited in to see the mosaics, paintings and leatherwork that were being created.

I felt inspired to write but did not have any paper. Drew returned with a tray from the cafe holding coffee, iced water and apple cake. Alongside sat a pretty, handmade coptic-bound sketchbook with a borrowed pen.

I wrote.

That evening I bought a beautiful soft leather bag and we ate pizza sitting by the window at 18 Casella. Highly recommend.

The final morning in Florence meant a hunt for luggage storage before our early evening flight. We left our cases safely at Rudi’s Bistro and headed out to a haberdashery store recommended to me by a friend. I spent way too long choosing threads and tassels from seemingly endless drawers before buying pretty handmade candies and a leather belt at nearby shops. Ice cream was consumed and I found a trendy Italian make-up shop in which to buy treats for our nieces.

The visit wouldn’t have been complete without a pilgrimage to the oldest pharmacy in Florence. I have been buying rosewater and pot pourri from their London branch for years and was keen to take in the atmosphere at their headquarters at last. Their window displays are the most beautiful I’ve seen and I spent a long time in each room sniffing and gazing! The perfect end to a short, sweet trip with my love.

Love

Nicki x